Sewer Work
Sewer lateral replacement and repair, tie-ins to the main, and new cleanouts where you need them.
Storm water drainage work in Buffalo, NY moves rain, roof runoff and groundwater off a property to an outlet that local rules allow. Dig Out WNY installs French and curtain drains, downspout lines to pop-up emitters, catch basins, culverts, ditches and detention ponds for homeowners and commercial owners, starting with a site walk to find where the water actually comes from.
A backyard that stays soft for days, a basement wall that weeps every March, a driveway apron that turns into a puddle you have to jump. In Buffalo, NY those problems usually trace back to the same three things: slow-draining clay under the topsoil, a lot grade that has settled over the decades, and roof water with nowhere legal to go. Good drainage work answers all three instead of burying a pipe and hoping.
Dig Out WNY installs French drains, curtain drains, buried downspout lines with pop-up emitters, catch basins, culverts, ditches and storm ponds for homes and businesses across Erie and Niagara counties. We walk every lot before the work is priced, ideally right after a good rain, so you can see where the water collects and why before anything gets dug. You get a plan that names the source, the fix and the outlet.
What is included
Buffalo sits on the Erie-Ontario lake plain, which the USDA soil survey for Erie County says has the topography of an abandoned lakebed. The survey puts the built-up land in and around the city on a low plain that tilts gently toward Lake Erie and the Niagara River, with soils formed mostly in glacial till, lake-laid sediments or alluvium, and much of the exposed ground since cut, filled or graded. Two soils it maps there, Niagara in silty lake sediments and Odessa in clayey deposits, are both rated somewhat poorly drained.
Clay particles are tiny and pack tight, so water creeps through them. For one broad group of soils that reaches into the suburbs around the city, that same survey names seasonal wetness, slow water movement through the subsoil and the clayey nature of many of the soils as the main limits on use. It also notes a perched water table in the upper subsoil of its main soils through winter and spring. That is the squishy layer your boots find in April.
This changes the design. A dry well or buried pit of stone that works fine in sandy ground tends to fill and stay full in clay, because the water has nowhere to soak. On heavy soil, a drain has to carry water to a real outlet: daylight at a lower spot, a ditch, a pop-up emitter on a slope, or a storm sewer you have permission to use.
Before anything is dug, it pays to know which kind of water you have. Each kind has its own fix, and choosing the wrong one is how people end up with a French drain that never runs.
Plenty of yards have two or three of these at once. Your plan should say which is which, and in what order to tackle them.
Tying a downspout or sump line into the house sewer looks like the easy answer. Around here it usually isn't allowed. The Buffalo Sewer Authority's sewer use regulations bar anyone from connecting roof downspouts, exterior foundation drains, areaway drains or any other runoff or groundwater source to a building sewer that reaches a public sanitary sewer. Where a street has a combined sewer instead, the same regulations aim to keep storm water out of it as far as possible, and the allowance that lets old connections keep working does not extend to new ones. Talk to Buffalo Sewer before planning any new storm connection in the city.
Where one of the Erie County Sewer Districts provides service, its Rules and Regulations, adopted by the County Legislature on April 30, 2026, state that footing drains, roof drains and sump pumps shall not be connected to the sanitary sewer. The county's Division of Sewerage Management explains the reason: an 8-inch sewer can carry the flow from roughly 200 homes, yet just 8 sump pumps running at full capacity can overload it. Where a city, town or village runs its own sewers, its rules govern instead, so check with that sewer department.
If an old downspout or sump line is already piped into your lateral, disconnecting it and giving that water a new route is part of the job. When the lateral itself is cracked or full of roots, that is sewer lateral repair, and it can often be scheduled alongside the drainage work.
On larger suburban and rural lots, where the road has an open ditch instead of curbs and a storm sewer, drainage is mostly a ditch question. A roadside or back-lot ditch that has filled with silt and grass stops moving water, and the yard behind it backs up. On your own land, cleaning a ditch out to its original depth and pitch, or cutting a new swale along a property line and hydroseeding its banks so grass holds them, is often the simplest fix on the table. Just make sure the new route doesn't hand the water to a neighbor.
Culverts carry that ditch water under a driveway or farm lane. A crushed, undersized or sagging pipe turns the ditch upstream into a pond. Replacing one means setting the new pipe at the ditch's flow line, bedding it, and covering it with enough compacted stone to carry trucks. A roadside ditch usually sits in the public right-of-way, so the town, county or state highway department that maintains the road may set the pipe size and material or require a permit. Ask before the old pipe comes out, and before digging out a roadside ditch. We can build the stone base over a new culvert as part of driveway and lane construction.
Catch basins handle the low spots a ditch can't reach. A precast or plastic box with a grate sits at the low point, a sump below the outlet pipe traps silt, and the outlet runs to daylight or an approved storm line. Scoop that sump out after the fall leaves come down and the basin keeps working.
Commercial drainage is engineering first and digging second. A parking lot is pitched to catch basins and drainage structures, which feed a storm sewer, an underground chamber or a pond sized for the site. We build to the grades and pipe sizes on the approved plans and check each structure and pipe invert against the plan elevations before anything gets backfilled.
Storm ponds come in two kinds. A detention pond stays mostly dry, holds runoff during a storm and lets it out slowly through an outlet structure. A retention pond keeps a permanent pool of water and stores the extra above it. Our pond construction work covers the excavation and shaping for both, including the outlet.
Project size drives the paperwork. Any construction that will disturb one acre of soil or more falls under DEC's statewide general permit for construction stormwater (GP-0-25-001): coverage has to be in place before work starts, and a Stormwater Pollution Prevention Plan has to be written for the site. If the site lies inside a city, town or village that operates a regulated municipal storm sewer system (MS4), the owner or operator also has to get either a signed SWPPP acceptance form or a signed no-jurisdiction form from that municipality. Owners and their engineers usually handle those filings, and we build to what gets approved.
How it works
We walk the property, ideally during or right after rain, and note where water enters, where it sits, what the downspouts and sump are doing, and what the neighboring grades send your way.
We measure heights from the foundation to every possible outlet. If there is no downhill spot to send the water, you hear that before a design is drawn, not after a trench is open.
Daylight, a ditch, an emitter on a slope, or a storm connection the municipality approves. The outlet sets the pipe route and depth, so it gets decided before anything else is laid out.
Utility locates come first. Trenches go in with steady fall, pipe is bedded in washed stone, fabric keeps clay fines out, and backfill is compacted so the lawn doesn't sink over the line.
We run a hose or wait for the next storm to confirm flow at the outlet, then topsoil the trenches. Larger bare areas can be hydroseeded so grass holds the soil before heavy rain returns.
Service areas
Pick your town to see what digging and building there involves, or call and we will tell you straight away whether we can get to you.
Questions & answers
Not into a sanitary sewer, and don't count on a combined sewer either. The Buffalo Sewer Authority's rules prohibit connecting downspouts, foundation drains or other groundwater and runoff sources to a building sewer that reaches a public sanitary sewer. For combined sewers, the same rules aim to keep storm water out as far as possible, and the allowance that lets old connections keep working does not extend to new ones. Erie County Sewer District rules bar sump pumps and roof drains from the sanitary sewer too. The usual answer is a buried line to a pop-up emitter, a ditch or daylight.
Usually because the clay under your topsoil drains slowly and water perches on top of it. The Erie County soil survey describes a perched water table in the upper subsoil of several common local soils during winter and spring. Add a settled grade that tips toward the house, or downspouts dumping at the foundation, and the yard never gets a chance to dry out. Which of those is the main cause decides the fix, and a site walk after a rain is the quickest way to find out.
Regrade if water runs across the surface toward the house, and install a French drain if the ground stays saturated even where the slope is right. Surface water responds to shape, so fixing the pitch is the simpler and longer-lasting repair. Groundwater moving through the soil needs a stone-filled trench and perforated pipe to intercept it. Many Buffalo yards need a bit of both, and the site walk shows you which comes first.
Usually not well. A dry well is a stone-filled pit or chamber that depends on water soaking into the surrounding soil, and dense lake clay lets water through slowly. In heavy clay the pit fills during a storm and can take a long time to empty, so the next rain has nowhere to go. We look for a gravity outlet first, such as daylight, a ditch or an emitter downslope, and keep dry wells for sandier ground.
They can. A pop-up emitter opens only when water in the buried line rises high enough to lift the lid, so a little water stays in the pipe after every storm, and any sag holds more. In January that water can freeze into a plug. We keep the line sloped without dips from downspout to emitter, set the emitter well below the inlet, and bed the low elbow in washed stone with small weep holes so leftover water can drain away, even if slowly in clay. Keep the lid clear of leaves and plowed snow.
It depends on the size of the job and your municipality. Any construction project, residential or commercial, that will disturb an acre of ground or more needs coverage under New York's construction stormwater permit from DEC, plus a written pollution prevention plan for the site. Smaller jobs may still need a local permit, especially for work in a road ditch, a new storm connection or a pond. Rules differ between Buffalo and each surrounding town, so confirm with your building department before digging.
Related work
Sewer lateral replacement and repair, tie-ins to the main, and new cleanouts where you need them.
Trenching for water services, electric and data conduit and gas lines, with proper bedding and cover.
Basement digs, footing and utility trenches, and backfill placed in compacted lifts for Western New York clay.
Room and garage additions on footings dug below frost and tied properly to your existing house.
Ground-up new homes, from clearing the lot and setting the foundation through utilities and final grade.
Building lots, fence lines and overgrown acreage cleared, with forestry mulching that leaves the ground covered.
Call or text (716) 444-6613 with a few photos of the wet spot and your downspouts. We'll walk the site and lay out where the water should go.