Excavation & Earthwork

Buffalo Excavating, From a Footing Trench to a Full Basement

Quick answer

Dig Out WNY is an excavation contractor working in Buffalo, NY and nearby communities across Erie and Niagara counties. We dig basements and foundation holes, footing trenches, utility and drainage trenches, ditches and driveway or patio subgrades for homeowners, builders and businesses. We file the 811 locate notice before machine digging, keep the hole stable in wet clay, and backfill in compacted lifts.

When you hire Dig Out WNY for excavating in Buffalo, NY, you get a hole cut to the depth on your drawings, walls that stay put while the next crew works, and a site left ready for concrete, pipe or stone. We handle basement and foundation digs, footing trenches, trenching for water, sewer and electric lines, ditches, and the subgrade under new driveways and patios. Homeowners, contractors and business owners can call or text us about jobs as small as one trench or as big as a full basement.

Digging here takes more planning than the machine work suggests. On the lake plains of Erie and Niagara counties, some soils formed where sand settled over clay laid down in glacial lakes, and that firm, plastic clay drains slowly and holds water on top of it. Footing depth is set by your local building department, and your yard probably hides a sewer lateral and water service that the utilities may not mark. The sections below explain how we handle each of those before the first bucket goes in.

What is included

Digging work we take on around Buffalo

  • Basement and full-foundation holes with working room for forms and drain tile
  • Footing trenches cut to the depth on your permit drawings
  • Trenching for water services, sewer laterals and electric or data conduit
  • Utility excavation to expose, repair or tie into an existing line
  • Ditch excavation and wide trenches for large-diameter storm or culvert pipe
  • Driveway and patio excavation down to firm, undisturbed subgrade
  • Pond excavation for new ponds and enlarged or reshaped basins
  • Tree and brush clearing ahead of the first bucket
  • Backfill in compacted lifts, spoils haul-off and topsoil stockpiling

Sand over clay: reading the ground before we dig

Some ground around Buffalo digs easily for the first two or three feet and then turns into something else. The Cheektowaga soil series, whose official USDA description is based on a site in the Town of Clarence, shows the pattern: 20 to 40 inches of sandy soil sitting on varved (finely layered) silty clay loam and silty clay, described as firm and plastic. Water moves quickly through the sand and slowly through the clay, so it collects right where the two meet.

In an open hole, that contact line is where trouble starts. Sand has no real cohesion and sloughs off the wall as it dries, water weeps out at the top of the clay, and wet clay smears and clings to the bucket. Neighboring soils such as Lakemont and Madalin formed in clayey lake deposits and are poorly drained as well.

That is why we read the ground before we price it. How the lot drains after rain, where the low spots sit and how deep the dig must go tell us whether the hole needs a pump, how far back the spoils go, and whether the work should wait out a wet week. Soil type also sets how the walls are cut, which the next section covers.

811 marks, white paint and the private lines in your yard

Under Part 753, the state's rule for protecting buried utilities, the excavating contractor files the locate ticket, not you. UDig NY, the 811 call center, needs that ticket at least two working days before the first scoop, and it can't be filed more than ten working days early. We outline the work area in white paint so locators know where to look, and the bucket stays parked until every utility on the ticket has painted its lines or reported nothing within 15 feet.

Paint colors are set by the same rule. Red is electric, yellow is gas, orange is phone or cable, blue is water and green is sewer. Around each mark sits a buffer the rule calls the tolerance zone: 24 inches each way from the middle of the mark, widened by half the line's diameter when its size is known. Where a gas line's tolerance zone overlaps the dig, the pipe has to be exposed with hand-dug test holes before a machine works there, and once any line is verified, no powered bucket comes within four inches of it unless the utility agrees in writing.

What 811 leaves out matters just as much. Public lines are typically marked only up to the property line, with gas marked to where it enters the house, and UDig NY lists sewer laterals, water services, sprinkler lines, invisible dog fences and wires to lamp posts among the private lines that may go unmarked. Tell us where yours run and we hand-dig where they should cross. A cracked lateral goes to our sewer lateral repair service, and new water or electric runs go in through our underground utility installation work.

Cave-in rules and the real footprint of a dig

Federal OSHA rules shape every deep hole. Once a trench or excavation in soil reaches five feet and people will work in it, the walls need protection: sloped or benched back, shored, or shielded with a trench box. Trenches four feet or deeper need a ladder, ramp or stairs within 25 feet of each worker, and spoil piles sit at least two feet back from the edge.

How far the walls get laid back depends on the soil class. Clay that tests at 1.5 tons per square foot or more in unconfined compression can rate as Type A, the most stable class short of solid rock, but not if it is fissured, shaken by heavy traffic or previously disturbed. Sand, loamy sand and any soil with water freely seeping out of it are Type C, the least stable. A layered wall is normally rated by its weakest layer, and where firmer clay lies under the sand, each layer may be rated on its own, which still leaves the sand band in Type C, and rain can force a downgrade mid-job.

A full basement hole covers much more of your yard than the foundation outline, and that extra width gives room to set forms and lay drain tile for your new foundation and basement walls. Beside an existing house, the soil against the wall was disturbed during construction and can't count as Type A, so we plan a flatter cut or a box and never undermine the old footing. On a tight city lot with no room for a two-foot setback, OSHA notes that spoils may need to be hauled off temporarily, and we price that in from the start.

Keeping a footing trench sound through freeze and thaw

Footings have to sit below the depth frost reaches, or freeze-thaw cycles can lift and crack them. The required depth comes from your local building department and can differ from one municipality to the next, so the number on your permit drawings is the one that counts. As one example, the City of Niagara Falls deck guidelines set deck footings 42 inches deep, measured from finished grade to the bottom of the footing.

Our job is to get the trench bottom to that depth and keep it sound. We cut footing trenches down to undisturbed soil at the depth on your plans, clean the bottom by hand where the bucket leaves loose crumbs, and keep water out so the concrete bears on firm ground. Soft pockets get dug out and replaced, not covered over.

Winter changes the plan. A footing trench left open on a January night can freeze at the bottom, and concrete should never go onto frozen ground, so winter digs get timed to the pour or the bottom gets covered. Frozen chunks stay out of the backfill too: Part 753 bars backfilling with frozen earth, large rock or rubble that could damage buried utilities. Spring thaw brings the opposite problem, when saturated clay goes soft and a loaded truck can rut a lawn that looked solid a week earlier.

Backfill in lifts and a plan for every load of spoils

Backfill is where a sound dig can still go wrong months later. Dumping loose clay into a trench and tracking over the top leaves voids that settle after the first wet spring, which is how you end up with a sunken strip over a new water line or a low spot along the foundation. We place backfill in thin lifts and compact each one before the next, with stone or sand bedding around pipe and soil that will actually compact higher up. Part 753 also requires the fill beneath and around buried utilities to be properly compacted and to support the line.

Large-diameter pipe raises the stakes. A 24- or 30-inch storm pipe or culvert needs a trench wide enough to work compaction equipment down both sides, because the soil packed under the lower curve of the pipe, called the haunch, carries much of the load. Skimp there and the pipe can deflect, sag or crack.

Extra spoils either leave the site or stay for a reason. Wet clay that won't compact gets hauled off, while stripped topsoil can be stockpiled for final grading and topsoil spreading. On a raw lot, the dig is one step in a longer sequence of clearing, utilities, pads and grading that our site development page lays out.

How it works

How a dig runs, from site walk to backfill

  1. Walk the site first

    We look at access, overhead wires, low spots and drainage, where spoils can sit, and what your permit drawings or plans call for, then give you a clear price for the dig.

  2. Paint, notify, wait

    We outline the dig in white, file the 811 notice at least two working days ahead, and hold off until every utility has marked its lines or cleared the area.

  3. Cut, protect, dewater

    The machine digs to grade while walls are sloped, benched or boxed to suit the soil, spoils stay two feet back, and water is pumped out before anyone steps in.

  4. Clean bottom for the next trade

    Footing and pipe trenches get a firm, undisturbed bottom at the right depth, with soft spots dug out, so your foundation, plumbing or utility crew can start right away.

  5. Backfill, haul, tidy up

    Backfill goes back in compacted lifts, extra spoils are hauled away or topsoil is stockpiled, and the site is left rough-graded and ready for whatever comes next.

Service areas

Where we do excavation

Pick your town to see what digging and building there involves, or call and we will tell you straight away whether we can get to you.

Questions & answers

Questions about excavation

Do I need to call 811 myself before you dig in my yard?

No, the digging contractor files it, and on our jobs that's us. New York's Part 753 rule assigns the locate ticket to whoever is in the business of excavating. The ticket window opens ten working days out and closes two working days before the first scoop, counting only weekdays that aren't holidays. A dig pushed back more than ten working days needs a fresh ticket. Your part is telling us about private lines the utilities may not mark, such as the sewer lateral, a buried line to a lamp post, sprinklers or an invisible dog fence.

What happens to all the dirt you dig out of my yard?

It either leaves on trucks or stays on your lot with a job to do, and we settle which before digging starts. Topsoil is stripped and piled on its own so it can go back on top for the lawn. Subsoil that compacts well can be reused as backfill, while wet clay, old concrete and debris get hauled away. Expect more loose dirt than the hole's size suggests, because soil fluffs up once it is dug. Piles stay at least two feet from the edge, and on a tight lot the spoils get trucked out as we go.

What happens if you hit groundwater while digging a basement?

We pump it out and find its source before anyone works in the hole. On lake-plain lots, water can sit on top of the clay and weep out of the wall right at the line between sand and clay, the same saturated layer soil scientists describe above the clay in the Cheektowaga series. OSHA puts soil with water freely seeping from it in the least stable class and calls for removing or diverting water and inspecting again after rain. A wet wall can mean flatter sides or a trench box, and it is a strong hint that your foundation needs good drain tile.

Can you clear the trees and take down an old building before you dig?

Yes, and handling it as one sequence saves you from coordinating separate contractors. Trees, stumps and brush come out first through our land clearing and forestry mulching work, an old garage or house comes down under our demolition service, and old footings and slabs get pulled so nothing buried ends up under your new foundation. The dig then starts on clean ground. We walk the property with you and set the order of work before we price it.

Do you dig ponds and drainage ditches, or only foundations?

We dig ponds and ditches too, for homes and businesses. A ditch is cut to a steady fall so water keeps moving, with the ends shaped where it meets a culvert or outlet, and the banks stoned or seeded so they don't wash out. A pond starts with where the water will come from and where the overflow will go, and slow-draining clay subsoil can help a basin hold water once it is shaped and compacted. The full pond process, from layout to finished banks, is on our pond construction page.

What should I have ready before you come look at my site?

An address and a rough idea of the project are enough to get started. If you have them, bring the survey, permit drawings or builder's plans showing the foundation outline and depth. Anything you know about buried lines helps too: where the sewer lateral leaves the house, where the water service comes in, and any sprinkler, generator or lamp post wiring. Tell us about access as well, such as gate widths, overhead wires and where a truck can park. Once you have those together, a call or text to (716) 444-6613 gets a site walk on the calendar.

Related work

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Planning a basement, trench or ditch in Buffalo?

Tell us where the hole goes and what it's for at (716) 444-6613, call or text. We'll walk the lot, check soil and access, and give you a straight price.